Yes, your area has termites. The eastern subterranean termite is established across the areas we serve, and it is the most destructive wood-destroying insect in North America. It works in the soil and inside your walls, quietly, often for years before anyone notices.
Pest Control TC is a family-run, state-licensed team that inspects and treats termites across the areas we serve. We find the colony, treat it with liquid soil barriers or in-ground bait, and back the work with a renewable warranty.
This page gives you the real picture: how to spot termites, how to tell them from flying ants, what treatment actually costs, whether it is safe around kids and pets, and how WDI reports and landlord rules work where you live. Start with a free inspection whenever you are ready.
Pests We Treat and Eliminate
Yes, Your Area Has Termites
A lot of people assume a built-up neighborhood is too developed for termites. It is not. The eastern subterranean termite, Reticulitermes flavipes, lives in the soil under and around buildings in every community and tunnels up into the wood that holds your structure together.
These termites work out of sight. They build mud tubes to stay moist and hidden, and they feed around the clock. By the time damage shows on the surface, a colony has usually been eating for a while.
Older housing raises the stakes. Townhomes, walk-ups, and two-family homes pack wood joists against damp cellars and bare soil, which is exactly the setup subterranean termites look for.
Warning Signs You Have Termites
Termites hide well, but they leave clues. If you spot any of these in your home or building, book an inspection.
- Mud tubes: pencil-width tubes of soil running up cellar walls, foundation piers, or crawl space joists. This is the classic subterranean sign.
- Spring swarmers: clusters of winged insects around windows and doors, or piles of discarded, equal-length wings on sills and floors.
- Hollow or blistered wood: trim, baseboards, or joists that sound papery when tapped, or paint that looks bubbled and warped.
- Sagging or springy floors: soft spots and dipping floorboards where joists have been eaten from the inside.
- Frass and pellets: small piles of droppings or wood-colored grit near baseboards and window frames.
- Stuck doors and windows: frames that suddenly jam as termite-damaged wood swells and shifts.
- Discolored or drooping drywall: faint lines, sagging, or staining where termites and moisture meet behind the wall.
Termites vs. Flying Ants vs. Carpenter Ants
Spring swarmers panic a lot of homeowners who are actually looking at flying ants. Three features tell them apart.
- Waist: a termite has a thick, straight body with no pinch. An ant has a narrow, pinched waist.
- Antennae: termite antennae are straight and look like tiny beads. Ant antennae are bent, or elbowed.
- Wings: a termite's four wings are equal in length and shed easily. An ant's front wings are longer than the back pair.
- Carpenter ants do not eat wood, they hollow it out to nest in damp areas. They still cause damage, and a WDI inspection checks for them too.
Saw Swarmers Indoors? Do This Right Now
Swarmers inside your home almost always mean an active colony in or under the structure, not a few bugs that wandered in off the street. What you do in the next few minutes matters.
- Do not spray them. Bug spray scatters the colony, drives it deeper, and destroys the evidence an inspector needs.
- Capture a few in a sealed bag or jar so we can confirm termite versus ant.
- Photograph the wings and the exact spot they came out of, whether a baseboard, window frame, or floor crack.
- Write down the date, time, and weather. Termites swarm on warm, humid days, and that detail helps us locate the colony.
- Vacuum up the rest, then request an inspection. Speed matters more than cleanup.
Meet the Eastern Subterranean Termite
A quick read on this one insect explains why termites are urgent in your area and why nothing off a hardware store shelf will stop them.
Colony, caste, and how fast they feed
A mature subterranean colony is not a handful of bugs. It can hold hundreds of thousands of termites, organized into a queen, workers, and soldiers. The queen lays eggs year-round, the colony raises backup reproductives that lay eggs of their own, and the workers feed every single day.
Workers travel from the soil into your wood through mud tubes that keep them moist and hidden. They never stop, which is how slow, quiet damage compounds into real structural trouble.
Why subterranean termites are the main concern
Plenty of pages list four termite types as if all of them are a threat. For most homes the eastern subterranean termite is the real concern. Drywood termites occasionally arrive inside imported furniture, while Formosan and dampwood termites are far less common in much of the country. That accuracy matters, because treating a subterranean colony is very different from fumigating for drywood termites.
Termite season: when to watch
Swarm season is late March through May, sometimes into June. Swarms usually happen on warm, sunny days above 70 degrees, often a day or two after rain. A swarm means a colony nearby has matured enough to send out new reproductives.
Termites do not take winter off. Colonies stay active below the frost line all year, and the freeze-thaw cracks that open in foundations over winter become fresh entry points in spring.
Termite Treatment Options We Use
There is no single fix for every building. After the inspection, we recommend the approach, or combination, that fits your structure, the severity, and how you use the space.
Liquid soil-barrier treatment
We inject a non-repellent termiticide such as fipronil or imidacloprid into the soil around and beneath the foundation. Termites cannot detect it, so they tunnel through it, pick it up, and carry it back to the colony. The barrier protects immediately and is the strongest choice for an active infestation.
In-ground bait station systems
Sealed bait stations go into the ground around the building. Foraging termites feed on cellulose bait laced with a slow-acting growth regulator and spread it through the colony, eliminating it over weeks to a few months. Baiting uses very little chemical and is ideal for ongoing monitoring and tight urban lots.
Spot, wood, and combination treatments
For localized activity we use borate wood treatments and targeted spot work on accessible joists and sills. Many homes do best with a combined plan: a liquid barrier to knock down the active colony, plus bait stations to monitor and protect long term.
Liquid vs. bait at a glance
- Speed: liquid protects the day it goes in. Bait works gradually over weeks to months.
- Chemical footprint: liquid uses more product in the soil. Bait uses a small amount inside sealed stations.
- Best for: liquid for active, advanced infestations. Bait for monitoring, prevention, and sensitive sites.
- Maintenance: a barrier is periodic. Bait stations are checked and serviced, usually yearly.
Is professional treatment safe for kids and pets?
Yes, when a certified technician does it. The termiticide goes into the soil around and under the structure, not sprayed across your living space, and bait stations are sealed and tamper-resistant. We follow EPA-label re-entry times and can pick the lowest-impact option for homes with children, pets, or chemical sensitivities.
Why DIY and store-bought products fail
Retail sprays and foams kill the few workers you can see. The colony, hundreds of thousands strong and hidden in the soil, keeps eating. There is no continuous barrier and no colony transfer, so the problem comes right back. Most states require a license to apply professional termiticides, so the products that actually work are not sold for DIY use.
How Much Does Termite Treatment Cost?
A lot of termite pages dodge price entirely. We will not. Your exact number depends on the building, but these ranges are realistic for most homes.
- Termite inspection: about $75 to $150 as a standalone visit, and free when you are scheduling treatment.
- Liquid soil-barrier treatment: roughly $800 to $2,000 for most homes.
- In-ground bait system: about $1,500 to $3,000, including first-year monitoring.
- Whole-house treatment of a larger home or townhome: around $1,500 to $5,000 or more, depending on size and severity.
- WDI / NPMA-33 report for a closing: a separate flat fee.
Termite Prevention for Your Building
You cannot make a property termite-proof, but you can make it far less inviting. These steps cut moisture and remove the wood-to-soil contact termites need.
- Fix leaking faucets, pipes, and AC condensate, and dry out damp cellars.
- Redirect downspouts and grade soil so water runs away from the foundation.
- Keep firewood, lumber, and cardboard off the ground and away from the building.
- Break wood-to-soil contact on decks, fences, and steps.
- Keep mulch at least six inches below the foundation line and thin heavy plantings against the wall.
- Seal foundation cracks, including the freeze-thaw cracks that open over winter, and around utility penetrations.
- Keep cellar and crawl space vents clear so air keeps moving.
- Schedule an annual inspection. Early detection is the whole game.
Termites by Building Type
Risk depends on what you own and where it sits.
Townhomes, row houses, and attached homes
These are prime targets. Wood joists meet damp cellars and bare soil, and older buildings have settled and cracked. The bigger issue is that attached homes share foundations, party walls, and the same strip of soil. A colony in one home can move straight into the next, so adjoining homes often need to be inspected and treated together.
Condos and multi-unit buildings
In a shared building, one swarm is a building problem. If termites turn up in a single unit, the whole structure should be inspected, and treatment usually needs board approval and coordination. Treating one apartment in isolation rarely solves it.
Single- and two-family homes with yards
Homes with yards, gardens, and crawl spaces carry the highest risk, simply because more soil touches wood. Detached and semi-detached homes with planted beds against the foundation give a colony plenty of routes from the soil into the framing.
High-rises and ground-floor units
Risk is lower in a tower but not zero. Ground-floor units, cellars, and shared structural wood can still harbor subterranean termites, and drywood termites occasionally ride in on imported furniture. A swarm in one apartment still means the building gets inspected.
WDI / NPMA-33 Inspections for Real Estate
Buying, selling, or financing a property usually means a wood-destroying insect inspection. We provide the report lenders and boards accept.
WDI report vs. a standard termite inspection
A standard termite inspection finds activity and scopes treatment for you, the owner. A WDI report is the standardized NPMA-33 form, signed by a certified inspector, that goes into a real-estate file. Lenders, FHA and VA loans, and many condo and HOA boards require the NPMA-33 specifically, so order the right one for your deal.
What the report covers
The NPMA-33 documents not only termites but carpenter ants, carpenter bees, and powderpost beetles, plus any visible prior damage and conducive conditions like moisture or wood-to-soil contact. The inspector checks accessible basements, crawl spaces, attics, and closets.
Who needs one and when
Buyers, sellers, mortgage lenders, and government-backed loans drive most requests, and many condo and HOA boards want one before sign-off. Order it early in the closing timeline so any findings can be treated before the deadline. The written report turns around quickly.
Renters and Landlords: Who Pays for Termites?
In most places the landlord, not the tenant, is responsible for keeping a building free of pests, termites included, and for hiring a licensed operator to handle them. Local housing codes spell out the exact duty, but the general rule is consistent.
If you rent and suspect termites, report it to the landlord or managing agent in writing and keep a copy. If they do not act, file a complaint with your local housing or code-enforcement office and request an inspection. Keep records of every report in case you need to escalate.
Our Step-by-Step Approach
- 1
Free inspection
A state-licensed technician checks the interior, exterior, cellar or crawl space, perimeter soil, and plumbing penetrations, and looks for conducive conditions like moisture and wood-to-soil contact. Most inspections take under an hour.
- 2
Findings and quote
You get clear written findings, photos of what we found, and a treatment quote. For a sale or refinance, we issue the NPMA-33 WDI report that lenders and boards accept.
- 3
Targeted treatment
We install the plan that fits your building, a liquid soil barrier, in-ground bait stations, or a combination, applied to EPA label and state standards.
- 4
Monitoring and warranty
We service bait stations and back the work with a renewable re-treatment warranty, so new activity is handled without a surprise bill.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes. The eastern subterranean termite (Reticulitermes flavipes) is established across the areas we serve and is the most destructive wood-destroying insect in North America. Older buildings, townhomes, and any home with a cellar or soil contact are most at risk.
Most jobs run about $800 to $2,000 for a liquid soil-barrier treatment and $1,500 to $3,000 for a bait system with first-year monitoring. Whole-house treatment of a larger home or townhome can reach $1,500 to $5,000 or more, depending on size and severity.
Eastern subterranean termites swarm late March through May, sometimes into June, usually on warm, sunny days above 70 degrees right after rain. A swarm means an established colony is nearby and warrants an immediate inspection.
Do not spray them, since that scatters the colony and destroys evidence. Capture a few in a sealed bag, photograph the wings and where they emerged, note the date and weather, then request an inspection. Swarmers inside almost always mean an active colony in or under the structure.
Not effectively for subterranean termites. Retail sprays kill only the visible workers while the hidden colony of hundreds of thousands keeps feeding. Lasting control needs a continuous soil barrier or in-ground baiting installed by a state-licensed applicator, with follow-up monitoring.
Yes, when a certified technician applies it. Modern non-repellent termiticides are injected into the soil around and beneath the structure, not sprayed in living space, and bait stations are sealed and tamper-resistant. We follow EPA-label re-entry times and can use the lowest-impact option for sensitive households.
Often yes. Many mortgage lenders, plus FHA and VA loans, require a Wood Destroying Insect report (NPMA-33), and many condo and HOA boards ask for one too. It documents active termites, carpenter ants, carpenter bees, and powderpost beetles, plus prior damage and conducive conditions, before closing.
In most places the landlord must keep the building free of pests, including termites, and hire a licensed operator. Report it in writing first; if the landlord does not respond, file a complaint with your local housing or code-enforcement office and request an inspection. Check your local housing code for the exact rules.
Almost never. Standard homeowners and condo policies treat termite damage as a preventable maintenance issue, so treatment and repairs come out of pocket. That is why an annual inspection and a renewable warranty are the cheapest protection you can buy.
Yes. Attached homes share foundations, party walls, and soil, so a colony can move from one building into the next. If you or a neighbor has activity, adjoining units should be inspected and are often best treated together.